Take the tube (a one-day pass cost 5.1 pounds) over to Leicester Square. Hopefully it’s not Sunday (no theatre) or Monday (some of the places are closed). Leicester Square is the place to buy your half-price tickets for the theatre and they open at 10:00 am so you can plan the rest of your day. While you’re at it, take a look at the bust of Hogarth (1697-1764) in the park in the center.
4. Sir John Soane’s Museum
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Go from Leicester Square over to Lincoln’s Inn Fields to this very interesting FREE museum, formerly the private home of Sir John Soane (1753-1837), a prominent architect in his day. The house was expanded during his lifetime to house his extensive collections of art, sculpture and architectural fragments. There are tiny interior courtyards and mirrors in unexpected places that add light and depth, as well as a crypt full of sculptures, including an authentic sacrophagus and a “monk’s chamber” to add a gothic effect. For paintings, you can see the original paintings of Hogarth’s “The Rakes Progress” as well as some Turners. According to the guide at the museum, Hogarth’s paintings were not big sellers in his day though he longed to be recognized as a serious artist. While perusing the different rooms, you learn to respect and like Sir John Soane as you pick up tidbits about his life, friends and family. |
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5. Charles Dickens’ house
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From Lincoln’s Inn Fields, walk over to the Holborn tube and take the Picadilly line to Russell Square (one stop, but elevator only egress from Russell Squre is so annoying that you might choose to walk). Walk through Bloomsbury, following signs that point you along Bernard and over to Guilford St, where the signs stop. Take a left on Guilford and pretty soon you’ll see Doughty St. It costs 5 pounds to visit and I was tempted just to take a picture and continue on my way; however, it is so charming inside that I decided to see the whole house and I’m glad I did. There is a decent film about Dickens’ life that is shown at regular intervals, a charming back garden, lots of photos of the author with his family and friends, information on his writing style and his social activism, and when I was there, the upstairs parlor was all decked out for a true “Dickensian” Christmas. This is the house where Dickens wrote important works, such as “Nicholas Nickleby” and “Oliver Twist.” By the way, “Nicholas Nickleby” has recently been adapted for the state in a much-heralded two-part performance. Unfortunately, It opened the day I left London. |
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From Dickens’ house, you can walk down Gray’s Inn Road to Holborn as I did, or get the tube to St. Paul’s. I walked along the Holborn Viaduct and saw the plaque commemorating the sight of Newgate Prison, and passed the Old Bailey, but didn’t go in to see the bewigged lawyers arguing cases a la Rumpole (have to save something for my next visit). Head down Fleet Street and turn in the little lane by Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. Samuel Johnson (1709-1784) wrote the first English dictionary and was the literary lion of his day. The house is very authentic with lots of portraits of friends and family. His visitors included Oliver Goldsmith, the painter Joshua Reynolds, Edmund Burke and, of course, Boswell (later to be his biographer). Several paintings by Reynolds are displayed and the top floor, or garret, has information on his system for compiling his dictionary with the help of six clerks. It costs 4.50 pounds to visit. |
7. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
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After visiting historic homes, one might feel the need for a ‘swift half’ so upon leaving Dr. Johnson’s house drop in at the pub which he frequented. It is a dark, low-ceilinged, perfectly charming place, and the bar where I hung around had a welcoming fire in the stove. The bartender told me the food was expensive in the restaurant, but that the food bar in the basement was reasonable. |
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From Fleet Street, continue along the Strand to Somerset House and pay the 5 pounds (it’s well worth it) to see the fabulous collection of Impressionist and post Impressionist works. Besides the big name Manets, Monets, Van Goghs and others, it is interesting to see little-known works by Bloomsbury Group members Vanessa Bell (Virginia Woolf’s sister), Roger Fry and Duncan Grant. |
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9. The Sherlock Holmes Pub
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Art makes a person thirsty, and I had been wanting to try this pub since my first trip to London in 2006. Just follow the Strand toward Trafalgar Square and turn down Northumberland Ave. This is a convivial pub with great fish n’ chips, the Sherlock Holmes ale was pretty good and it is fun to see the Sherlock Holmes’ paraphenilia scattered about, including the stuffed head of the Hound of the Baskervilles. Old Sherlock Holmes films play on ceiling-mounted TVs and apparently there is a replica of Sherlock Holmes’ study, which we didn’t get to see because I didn’t read up on the pub until we had moved on. We would definitely go back and after looking at the website menu, I would like to try the upstairs restaurant as well. The December weather was so mild that we had a drink sitting outside (with our coats on). Upon leaving the pub, true Sherlock Holmes’ fans will want to cut over to Whitehall and snap a picture of the “Great Scotland Yard” sign. |
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10. National Portrait Gallery
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This is the place to tie it all together, seeing portraits of Charles Dickens (room 24), Virginia Woolf painted by Vanessa Bell (room 31), James Boswell painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds (room 12) and, of course, the tiny sketch of Jane Austen done by her sister, Cassandra. I also love to start at the top and visit the Tudor and Stuart rooms – so much history and drama! You can see Richard III next to Henry VII and decide for yourself which one looks more like a murderer, then see Henry VIII in his famous foursquare pose, surrounded by many of his wives: Anne Boleyn next to Katherine of Aragon. Their daughters, Elizabeth I, with her half-sister Mary (called Bloody Mary), their cousin, Mary, Queen of Scots, and the newly-acquired portrait of Lady Jane Grey, a tragic figure who was Queen for nine days before being deposed and disposed of. The Stuarts are just as interesting: Charles I who lost his head and his throne, Charles II with his wife and several of his mistresses (including Nell Gwynne of Drury Lane), and children born out of wedlock. Then Bonny Prince Charlie, the ‘young pretender’….I think this is my favorite place to visit in London! And, since it’s free, it’s easy to pop in and out and visit favorite rooms. They are open daily, 10-6, and until 9 on Thursdays and Fridays and also seem to serve a decent tea. |
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11. Browns Restaurant
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By now, all the museums are closed so it’s time for a pre-theatre drink at Browns, just walk up St. Martin’s Lane and you’re there. We had Bellinis in the bar while waiting for our table. Even though Browns is now a chain, it had a great atmosphere, nice bustle and great service, even on a busy night (we didn’t like the Sauvignon Blanc we ordered and chose something else, they didn’t charge us for the first wine). We did wait much longer than anticipated for our table, but we had fun chatting with other theatre-goers crammed in around the bar. Once seated, our waiter gave excellent advice, steering my dining companion toward a steak and guiness pie, which he loved, and me toward a nice red wine to accompany my lamb chops. |
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We had lunch here one day, but if one felt inclined to stroll down Picadilly Lane after the theatre, it would be a good place for an after theatre drink and some tapas. The food and service were both excellent and the prices weren’t bad for Mayfair. The baby clams in a garlicky broth with bread for dipping were excellent. |
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[…] First of all, I’m green with jealousy that she gets to live in London (my favorite city, see London Literary Moments). The next time I am lucky enough to be in London, I will have a bookstore theme to […]